Introduction: Why We Chose This Ryokan
For this trip to Arima Onsen, we had one non-negotiable requirement: a genuine free-flowing hot spring (gensen kakenagashi).
Arima is one of the most accessible and popular hot spring towns near Osaka and Kobe, and this was already our fourth visit this year.
However, we recently discovered something disappointing: some of the ryokan we had previously believed to be “free-flowing” were, in fact, not. That realization prompted us to start our search again—this time checking the details very carefully.
When we filtered our search by “free-flowing hot spring” and “in-room bath if possible,” the only available option just three weeks before our stay was the suite category at Tosen Goshobo.
We didn’t need such a large room, but authenticity mattered more than size—so we booked it without hesitation.
Arrival and Check-in
Due to work commitments, we arrived a little after 4:00 PM, missing the standard 3:00 PM check-in time.
Check-in took place in the waiting lounge, which also serves as a dining area during meal times.
From there, we climbed the stairs to the top floor, where Room 502 is located. The building is old, but it is meticulously cleaned and well maintained.
The stairs creaked loudly, and by the time we reached the top, we were slightly out of breath—but also excited.
First Impression: The Size of Room 502
The moment we entered the room, our first reaction was simple: “This is huge.”
The Premium Suite 502 (GU) is approximately 130 square meters, and the layout is surprisingly complex and interesting.
Room Layout Overview
- A spacious living area
- Two toilets
- A dedicated dresser and vanity room
- A bedroom
- A traditional tatami room
- A second tatami space with a mini bar
- An indoor terrace space connected to the hallway
- A bookshelf that doubles as a hidden door, leading to a small room filled with children’s toys
Walking through the room feels like making a full loop—it’s almost playful in design.
With futons laid out in the tatami room, it would easily accommodate 5–6 guests, although we are not sure what the official maximum occupancy is.
The Private Onsen & Sauna Experience
The highlight of our stay was, without question, the in-room free-flowing kinsen (iron-rich hot spring).
The bathing area is spacious and luxurious, featuring:
- A large private bath with free-flowing Arima kinsen
- A washing area
- A private sauna
- A terrace beside the bath for outdoor air bathing
Because it was winter, we didn’t actually sit outside, but we opened the window partially and enjoyed the bath as a semi-open-air onsen.
Opening it too much felt risky, as it seemed visible from outside, so we kept it about halfway open.
Disappointing Issue: Water Temperature Management
Unfortunately, this is where our experience took a negative turn.
When we first arrived, the water temperature was perfect. However, as the evening went on, the bath gradually became noticeably colder—to the point where it felt uncomfortable to stay in.
We contacted reception, and after checking, they told us the temperature setting had somehow dropped by four degrees Celsius, which they corrected.
But the next morning, the same issue happened again.
The water wasn’t just slightly cooler—it had turned into lukewarm water.
At that point, we didn’t even bother calling again.
Going to an onsen ryokan specifically for the hot spring, only to find that the temperature isn’t properly managed, was deeply disappointing—especially in winter.
Facilities & Comfort Notes
- Towel replenishment: Available anytime by phone request
- Old building charm: Beautifully maintained, but cold air easily enters common areas
- Hallways and shared spaces: Quite cold in winter
- Stairs only: No elevator, which may be challenging with heavy luggage
Comparing Goshobo with Goshobessho
We have stayed several times at Goshobessho, another ryokan in the Goshobo group.
After considering everything, I personally find Goshobo more convenient and enjoyable.
Key differences:
- At Goshobessho, the hot spring water is transported from Goshobo, so in-room baths are not free-flowing
- There is a limit of four bathing sessions
- Given the price point, those restrictions feel hard to justify
In contrast, Room 502 at Goshobo offers a true free-flowing private bath and sauna.
For us, this made a significant difference in overall satisfaction.
Final Thoughts
What we loved
- Exceptional room size and layout
- Genuine free-flowing kinsen in the room
- Private sauna and semi-open-air bathing experience
What disappointed us
- Poor hot spring temperature management
- Cold common areas during winter
Overall, if free-flowing hot spring water is your top priority, Tosen Goshobo’s Premium Suite 502 is a compelling option.
With some improvement in temperature control, this room could easily be outstanding.
We would love to return in a warmer season—perhaps spring or autumn—when enjoying the terrace and outdoor air bath would be more comfortable.
Next, I’m planning to write a separate article focusing on the dining experience.
Please look forward to it!