This was a one-night onsen getaway for two middle-aged women. We decided about three weeks in advance, choosing a place reachable by train from Tokyo with the keyword “gensen kakenagashi” (100% natural hot spring). The only available room was in the Sanso wing of Sekizenkan, so that’s where we booked. My trips are usually planned at the last minute, so options are often limited. This post records my honest impressions of the stay—hopefully useful if you’re considering this ryokan.
🌹 Basic Information of the Ryokan
| Item | Details |
|---|---|
| Facility Name | Sekizenkan Sanso (Ryokan Wing “Sanso”) |
| Location | 4236 Shima Ko, Nakanojo-machi, Agatsuma-gun, Gunma Prefecture |
| Year Built | Built in 1936 (Sanso Wing) |
| Architecture / Designation | Wooden ryokan building. Registered Tangible Cultural Property & Gunma Modern Heritage. |
| Check-in / Check-out | Check-in 14:00–18:00, Check-out 11:00 |
| Room Types Overview | Standard Japanese-style rooms (8-tatami + veranda), Japanese-Western special rooms (with semi-open-air bath), etc. |
| Parking | Dedicated parking available for Sanso & Kasho-tei guests |
| Official Website | https://www.sekizenkan.co.jp/ |
🚕 Arrival & Check-in
We arrived by taxi at the entrance of Kasho-tei, which also serves as the entrance for Sanso guests. Sekizenkan has multiple wings, and Sanso check-in is handled here. Staff immediately came out to greet us and took our luggage. Check-in was smooth, leaving a good first impression.
During check-in, we were served a small piece of castella cake and tea in the lounge area. The cake was pleasantly chewy and just the right size after a long trip.
Our attendants were a young Japanese woman and a trainee-looking foreign staff member. Their manner was warm and polite, though when I asked an off-script question like “When was this Sanso built?” they seemed a little unsure. Still, the overall atmosphere was welcoming and reassuring.
The lobby itself was modern and airy, raising our expectations for the stay. However, as more bus-arriving guests filed in, it became noticeably busier—something to note if you’re hoping for a very quiet check-in experience.
🛏 From Lobby to Room
Our booking was for Sanso, 3rd floor, Ukonn 1. Since it was a last-minute reservation, this was the only option left.
The walk from the modern Kasho-tei lobby to the Sanso wing quickly changed the mood: elevators, old wooden hallways, and a much more aged atmosphere. Honestly, it gave off a “slightly haunted-house feel” 😅—the kind of charm (or unease) that comes with 1930s wooden architecture.
For context: the Sanso was built in 1936 and is a Registered Tangible Cultural Property. Some rooms were renovated in 2022.
🌿 Inside the Room
Just as I had seen on YouTube previews, the room was spacious and filled with natural light when the sun was out. A faint tea-like aroma greeted us, which was very pleasant.
On the cloudy arrival day, the room felt a bit dim, but the next morning, sunlight streaming through the shoji made the space much more inviting.
My honest impression? I felt I had expected too much from the promotional photos. While the room matched the general look, the finer details showed wear:
- Walls and pillars had scratches and paint chips.
- The large windows facing outside were noticeably dirty, with dust, bird droppings, and even cobwebs.
- These uncleaned details immediately brought down the mood, especially since those windows were supposed to frame the view.
By contrast, I remembered staying at Mikiya in Kinosaki Onsen—a similarly historic wooden inn but immaculately maintained, with polished windows and spotless details. The difference in upkeep was striking.
Another note: October evenings were chilly. The staff quickly brought us an electric heater when we asked, but later I noticed other rooms had kotatsu (heated tables). I wish I had requested one!
As for the beds: the mattresses were quite firm. Personally, I struggled to fall asleep. Travelers sensitive to bed comfort may want to be prepared.
📸 Gallery
♨️ Private Onsen Bath in the Room
Our room had its own hot spring bath, labeled “semi-open-air.” In practice, it’s more of an indoor bath with windows you can open. Still, being able to let in the crisp autumn air while soaking was delightful.
The bath fit one person comfortably; for two adults, it felt a bit cramped. The water was clear, around 40°C, gentle on the skin, and left it smooth and soft afterward—no lotion needed. This was the highlight of the stay.
The sink area, however, was small—clearly designed for single use. For a room spacious enough to host four guests, this mismatch was inconvenient, especially for two women preparing at the same time.
👍 What I Liked
- Smooth, welcoming check-in experience
- Complimentary castella & tea service
- Pleasant aroma and natural light in the room
- Private hot spring bath with openable windows
- Quick response to requests (heater delivered immediately)
👎 What Could Be Improved
- Aged, almost eerie corridors between buildings
- Windows dirty with dust, cobwebs, and stains—detracting from the view
- Noticeable creaking noises from above (despite the website saying “best for those who don’t mind sounds”)
- Very firm beds that may not suit everyone
- Some areas covered with blue tarps, reducing the luxury feel
- In-room coffee that tasted more like barley tea than coffee
- Visible dust and poorly maintained corners throughout
🍎 Other Facilities
Private Family Baths: The ryokan has two private family baths available. We didn’t use them during our stay, but I took some photos to share. Since the spaces are quite small, I wouldn’t particularly recommend them.
Lounge: Available to both Sanso and Kasho-tei guests, but small. With just a few groups inside, it already felt cramped. Best to take drinks back to your room.
♨️ Public Baths
We also tried the public baths. The outdoor bath at Kasho-tei was spacious and relaxing, and we enjoyed a long soak there.
However, the famous main bath in the original building—often featured in media—felt crowded and not very relaxing. We left quickly and did not return. While it has historic charm, it didn’t provide the peaceful atmosphere we had hoped for.
📝 Overall Impressions
Staying at Sekizenkan Sanso offered history, atmosphere, and the unique chance to bathe in natural hot springs directly from your own room. At the same time, the lack of attention to cleaning and maintenance was disappointing. Compared to other historic ryokan that are polished to perfection, here the “aged charm” sometimes tipped into “neglect.”
For travelers seeking a mix of history and novelty, this ryokan still has appeal—especially with the room’s private onsen. But if you are sensitive to details like cleanliness, maintenance, or noise, it may not meet expectations.
✨ Note: Sekizenkan is widely known as one of the inspirations for Studio Ghibli’s Spirited Away. That connection alone adds a layer of magic and curiosity for many travelers, making it a unique cultural destination as well as an onsen stay.
📹 Room Tour Video | Follow my YouTube
🍽️ Coming Next
Curious about the meals at Sekizenkan?
Check out my dining review article, where I share an honest take on the dinner and breakfast experience — plus a short video of the dining atmosphere.
