The morning we checked out from Hanamurasaki, a faint trace of hot-spring mist still lingered in the air.
Our next destination, Bouyourou, was only about a 45-minute drive away — close enough to make it tempting to arrive early.
But instead, we decided to let the drive itself become part of the journey.
Unfolding the map, I marked a few spots that caught my eye — a soba restaurant, a pottery studio, and a scenic seaside cliff.
Each stop was brief, yet each added a gentle layer of color to our travel memories.
Sometimes, it’s those small detours — the “in-between” moments — that enrich a journey the most.
🍜 Lunch Stop: Handmade Soba Ishikawa (Yamashiro Onsen, Kaga)
Tucked away in the hot spring district of Yamashiro Onsen is Teuchi Soba Ishikawa, a small soba restaurant with a loyal local following.
This Kaga region of Ishikawa Prefecture has a deep-rooted soba culture — from Hakusanroku soba to Kaga soba — with many eateries using locally grown buckwheat flour.
Its proximity to the Fukui border, another famous soba region, has likely influenced this culinary tradition.
Even though we had soba for lunch the day before, we couldn’t resist trying another place.
We chose Ishikawa because it was conveniently located on our route, and its photos of freshly handmade noodles looked irresistible.
The first thing that caught my attention after entering was the white soba noodles — known as Gozen soba, made from only the core of the buckwheat grain.
It’s refined, smooth, and free of bitterness — elegant simplicity in noodle form.
I ordered the Tempura Soba.
It took a little while to arrive, but that only proved it was being prepared with care.
When a large plate of soba was served to the table next to ours, I briefly panicked — “Wait, is mine that huge too?”
Thankfully, theirs was a large portion; mine was perfectly sized.
The tempura, served with salt, wasn’t extraordinary but was freshly fried and crisp — just what I wanted.
The noodles themselves had a satisfying firmness and a smooth texture.
Not particularly fragrant, but refreshingly light — a fine example of handcrafted soba made with precision.
🏺 Kutani Pottery Studio: Seika Suda — The Quiet Elegance of Yamashiro Onsen
After lunch, we visited Seika Suda, a historic Kutani ware kiln near the Yamashiro public bathhouse.
Yamashiro Onsen is considered the birthplace of Kutani-yaki, and the town is dotted with pottery studios.
Founded in the Taisho era, Seika Suda is among the most respected, known for its refined designs that blend tradition with modern living.
Their pieces are used in some of Japan’s top restaurants, and they are beloved by collectors both in Japan and abroad.
I had been here once before and was captivated then — I even bought two plates, which I still use fondly.
That memory brought me back again.
Each piece exuded quiet dignity, making it almost impossible to choose.
Sunlight streamed through the glass, illuminating the lustrous glazes and bringing the displays to life.
Even the arrangement of plates and bowls within the glass cases felt like an art installation in itself.
I admit — I peeked at the price tags, secretly hoping that the pieces outside the display cases might be more affordable.
Of course, they weren’t. Fine art comes with fine prices.
Still, I couldn’t leave empty-handed. I chose one plate that spoke to me.
The gracious lady at the shop kindly allowed photography, and her warm smile made the visit even more memorable.
Encounters like this — moments of beauty and kindness — have a way of gently resetting the heart while traveling.
🌊 Tojinbo Cliffs — The Power and Brightness of Nature
Next, we headed to Tojinbo, a dramatic coastal formation in Fukui Prefecture.
The name often evokes eerie stories, and for years I imagined it as a somber, even frightening place.
But in reality, the scene was entirely different — cheerful, lively, even a bit touristy.
Souvenir shops and seafood stalls lined the walkway, and I heard more foreign languages than Japanese.
It’s clearly become a beloved international destination.
Standing on the cliff, I was awestruck by the vast expanse of the Japan Sea.
Waves crashed against the rugged rock faces, sending white spray high into the air — raw power in motion.
The wind, however, was astonishingly strong, whipping my hair and clothes within seconds.
We didn’t linger long — it was too blustery to stay — but I was glad we came.
It wasn’t a “scary” place at all, but one that let me feel the magnificence of nature.
The area is now well maintained, with safe paths and viewing points, making it an uplifting spot rather than a dark one.
🚗 Journey Summary
From Hanamurasaki to Bouyourou, we made three brief stops — each leaving its own impression.
A bowl of soba to satisfy the stomach, a pottery encounter to nourish the soul, and a seaside view to awaken the senses.
Sometimes, the most luxurious part of travel lies not at the destination,
but in the gentle detours along the way.
